Fort Simons Ridge

Hikes: D.
Total Distance, D: 6 or 9 miles.
Difficulty: Level I, II, III.
Season: May 15-July 1.
USGS Maps: Waha.
Other Map: Fish and Game Craig Mountain W.M.A.
Other Source: University of Idaho Forestry College Bulletin 40, "Canyon Grasslands and Associated Shrublands of West Central Idaho".
Dirt Road Miles: 3 gravel, 2 1/4 good dirt.
PLSS Location: Section 28, T33N R4W.

Introduction: Most of the lower, flatter, closer-to-water portions of Idaho Fish and Game's Craig Mountain Wildlife Management Area have been severely overgrazed. This hike takes you to the higher, steeper, drier portion that was not impacted as much, and is recovering well. It is notable for its good condition, upward trending range, for its closure to motor vehicles, and for its views into the northern end of Hells Canyon.
  You have two choices: hike a rugged Level III 9 mile loop down Madden Creek, up a side ridge, and then back via Fort Simons Ridge; or simply make a gentle Level I and II hike southeast to Fort Simons Ridge.

The Hike: To hike to Fort Simons Ridge, walk up the road that also leads down to the Snake. At the summit, a faint road cuts right, crosses a cattle guard, and heads up the ridge. The road is closed to motor vehicles, and its ruts may actually heal over time. Follow it, climbing for 300 steep feet.
  From this summit, you can see far down the ridge, to the flat 4800 foot summit in the center of Section 28, beyond some pesky trees. For the first two miles along the ridge, as far as 4504 (D), you walk along either old road or good trail easy Level I going. Good views to the west are continuous, but you can't see much on the Waha side.
  Everything is fine until you reach the forested saddle south of 4504, where things become Level II. The main ridge route has been logged, creating a horrendous brushfield. The best route seems to start to the right (west), through the older trees, to grassier terrain.
  Once you've made it on top of Fort Simons Ridge, follow its west rim until you're on the flat top. Amazingly, this miniature plateau has patterned ground--large hummocks of fine soil and lush vegetation, surrounded by rocky flats. This site was apparently too low for glaciation and too flat to hold its snow all year, but wet and cold enough to experience constant freeze-thaw cycles.
  The loop hike starts by following a good road down Madden Creek. Cross the fence near the trailhead at the gate, and start descending. Soon you are looking down Madden and Captain John Creeks to the Snake. Note the numerous young trees on the hillsides. This encroachment of forest into rangeland is being duplicated throughout the West, as documented in by historic photos. The culprit is ruthless suppression of wildfire, which periodically swept through such areas, killing young trees. You can also see a meadows area on a bench above the creek.   You'll climb to that bench, and then climb the ridge to the south.
There's not much of interest until you reach the meadows area. There are some prime stands of yellow starthistle and other weeds along the disturbed roadside. You can't miss the decision point (W1): a road cuts left and crosses a creek flowing out of a major side canyon. The view up that canyon discloses majestic basalt cliffs.
  Take the cutoff road, and after crossing a creek, follow a faint road right (southwest) through an old field. The road then cuts left and climbs to the left of a creek. After a while, the road turns right and climbs to the large high pasture you saw earlier. When you have climbed to the middle of the pasture, cut left and begin to climb up to the ridge between Madden and Captain John Creeks. An old logging road leaves the center of the pasture and climbs toward the ridge. When it peters out, climb to your right, hitting the ridge as low and as soon as possible (W2).
  The area's abundant elk have done an excellent job of maintaining a trail that follows the ridge, sidehilling when useful. At last you reach the top of Fort Simons Ridge--a glorious achievement (W3). As you descend to the saddle to the north, heading back to your car, and you enter timber, be sure to stay left (west).
(The author spent a long, lonely, painful night near here. His back had gone out on the hike, and he could barely do more than crawl. He went under the thermal cover of a grand fir tree, pulled everything out of his pack and put it on or under him, and spent the night, actually getting some sleep! The author says there are only two types of day hikers: those who have had to bivouac and those who haven't. You can tell the first group by the extra-large packs they carry. The author's big pack came in handy this night!)

Access: Start at the junction of Waha Road and Nez Perce County Route P2 (the main road starting at 21st Street in Lewiston, moving through the Orchards, and taking Sweetwater Creek to US-95). Drive 8 3/4 miles up the Waha Road to the point where it starts to curve sharply (BM 3077 on the Waha map), and turn right on a gravel road.
  Drive 1 3/4 miles and turn left on another gravel road. After only 1/4 mile, turn left on a good dirt road, built by Fish and Game to provide public access to the Craig Mountain WMA. It winds its way for 1 3/4 miles, where you go left around a switchback. In a short 1/2 mile, you reach a road junction at the WMA boundary, near a locked gate. Park here, making sure you don't block the road.