Whitebird Battlefield

Hikes: D.
Total Distance, D: 3 miles.
Difficulty: Level I.
Season: Year around.
USGS Maps: White Bird.
Forest Service Map: Nez Perce N.F.
Dirt Road Miles: None.
PLSS Location: Section 1, T28N R1E.

Introduction: This is the largest unit of Nez Perce National Historical Park: 1200 Park Service acres, with scenic easements on more. The hike has appeal for three reasons. First is its historical interest as the site of the first battle of the Nez Perce War--the only one the Indians won, with 70 Nez Perce roundly defeating 110 soldiers and volunteers. No Nez Perce were killed, versus 34 white dead. Forlorn Hope, by John McDermott, is an excellent guide to the battle. Nez Perce N.H.P. also has available a perfect pamphlet titled "White Bird Battlefield Auto Tour". Write for one; enclose 50 cents.
  The second source of interest is biological. Although a few rugged areas retain a semblance of natural vegetation, a century of grazing has destroyed much of the battlefield's flora. The Park Service is experimenting with various methods of restoring the waist high grass that covered the battlefield in 1877. This is an experiment worth watching. No one else in Idaho is trying to restore poor condition range to excellent!!
  The third appeal comes from its year around access, and the opportunity it gives to take a break from the North South Highway. In spite of the area's proximity to the road, the wind usually blows enough to mask highway noise.

The Hike: Walk through the gate, restoring it to the position you found it in probably closed. Continue straight up the road, until you come to the rectangles of vegetation trial plots. Look in, and think good thoughts about the grasses and flowers trying to return to the area. Grow, plants, grow!
  Now turn left (south), and look over the battlefield as the soldiers saw it on their weary approach. There are two buttes, a rounded one to the right, a rocky one to the left. You can't see around them, and neither could the cavalry. Right behind the round butte were about 40 to 50 Indians; below the rocky one, about 15 more. A few older warriors were near the creek, to the left; the Nez Perce camp was a bit lower down the creek.
  At this spot Ad Chapman, the volunteer guide, made a big mistake. He led the advance party to the left of the rocky butte, on the easiest way down to White Bird Creek-the easiest route for a glorious charge through the Indian camp. Had Chapman led the soldiers to the top of the round butte for a reconnaisance, they might have been pinned to the round butte or the brushy hillside below the new highway, but they wouldn't have been outflanked on both sides in open terrain. As it was, most of the decisive initial combat took place to the left of the rocky butte.
  Make your way to the round butte's summit (D), the highest spot on the battlefield, avoiding the green stands of thistle. Below is Whitebird Creek, site of the Indian camp. Behind you, far, far up the valley, is a ravine where seven soldiers were killed.
  Between you and the rocky butte is a ravine that probably wasn't used by either side in the battle. Along its steep crevices you can spot remnant patches of natural vegetation. Descend to the north along the edge of the cliff bordering this ravine, following a faint trail.
  Cross the drainage leading to the ravine and climb the rocky butte. This spot was occupied twice by the indomitable Sgt. McCarthy, the battle's biggest cavalry hero. Most of the initial fighting took place below and to the left (east). The volunteers started the battle with a rash charge that turned into a minor rout. They then occupied a slight knob just past a disturbed area; the cavalry was between that knob and the rocky butte. Very early in the battle, Nez Perce rode around the volunteers' knob, outflanking the left end of the line and panicking the volunteers.
  Soon after, other Nez Perce came around the round butte, outflanking the right side of the line. At some point the average, poorly trained cavalryman looked around and realized two things: that he was in danger of being surrounded; and that it was a long way back up the valley to safety in Grangeville. The cavalry lines melted, and only energetic work by a few officers kept the retreat from being a total rout.
  Descend the southeast edge of the rocky butte, watching for poison ivy, and reach a bench with Basin wild rye. Continue down past the disturbed area to the volunteers' knob. From this spot, where the first shots were fired and the only bugler (vital to battlefield communication) was killed, you have a choice. You can descend to the road and walk a long 1/4 mile up to your car, or you can find a cross country route back.

Access: Drive down the hill from US-95 to Whitebird town. From the stop sign at the intersection, turn right and drive 2.9 miles, to a sharp right curve with a gate on the west side. There is not a lot of parking here (or anywhere on old Whitebird Hill). Please allow plenty of room for other cars, and leave the gate unobstructed.