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Indian Bathtubs 
Hikes: D, O.
Total Distance, D: 6 miles.
Difficulty: Levels I, II+.
Season: February 15-May 1.
USGS Maps: Crowbar Gulch, Hot Springs.
BLM 100K Map: Glenns Ferry.
Dirt Road Miles: 3 3/4 gravel, 1 fair dirt.
PLSS Location: Section 11, T8S R6E.
Introduction: This is a surprisingly good hike: close
to civilization, with almost year around access, and with high-quality
vegetation and scenery. Plus, it's part of the Bruneau Canyon
Wilderness Study Area, and the
hike lets you see both under-the-rim and plateau portions of
the WSA.
The author recently took a weekend car-camp hiking
trip here during a warm November weekend: superb!
Sadly, an environmental catastrophe has occurred
here: what used to be Indian Bathtubs, a lukewarm pool that was
the scene of innumerable teen parties, is now a dry gulch. The
cause: either aquifer depletion from increased groundwater pumping,
or natural drought. Your choice depends on whether you are an
environmentalist or an irrigator. The key victim: not those deprived
teenagers but rather the Bruneau snail, which used to live here,
and whose continued existence as a species (in other hot water
springs along the Bruneau) may be endangered by continued pumping.
There are two possible routes: a loop hike which
descends to the Bruneau, follows a crude trail upstream, climbs
to the foot of the Twin Buttes, and then descends to the trailhead;
and a direct climb up to and back from the Twin Buttes. Warning:
the Bruneau Canyon and its approach downstream from the Bathtubs
are an infamous poison ivy area. All hikers must wear long pants
and shirts, and wash hands before eating. People who are sensitive
to poison ivy should not attempt the hike down the creek and
along the river. Study the appearance of poison ivy-not just
the dark green "leaves of three" of the springtime,
but the white berries of the fall.
The Hike: Start the loop hike by descending to Hot
Springs Creek below the former hot pool. Cross the fence (built
in a futile gesture as a grazing exclosure to keep cows from
trashing the vegetation around the suddenly- precious Bathtubs) onto private property.
Hike downstream, following the left bank. The sparse grass contrasts
with the intensely green poison ivy patches near the creek.
As you approach the Bruneau the creek starts to turn
to the left, and supports a dense willow stand. Cross just above
the start of the willows, climbing a tiny rock outcrop. You are
now on "the trail" that goes upriver--a route of varying
quality. For the next mile, the canyon is fairly wide, and cows
keep the route open. After one grassy bar that offers fair camping
(1/4 mile), you come to a bar with dense rose and currant thickets
(1/2 mile). Beyond there, the canyon narrows, the trail climbs
above the river's level, and cow use declines.
As you hike, keep your eyes on the trail, of course,
to watch for rocks, rattlers, and poison ivy. But also cast your
gaze above the trail. Watch for little benches above the cow
zone with lush native vegetation, which support deer. Also, a
few clay outcrops on the cliffs provide ideal cliff swallow nest
material. And, enjoy the intimate alcoves where small drainages
come from the right.
At the very top of the Crowbar Gulch map, you reach
a small grassy bar that offers sloping campsites. Beyond here
you briefly climb high above the river until a cliff forces you
down. At this point, look ahead toward a bend in the river that
pinches off any riverside trail. You'll climb out of the canyon
on the grassy slope you see on your side of the stream.
Start to climb up just after you cross a drainage,
following a pretty good trail. You come out right by a little
finger of land (D) that offers a superb panoramic view of the
Bruneau. At the end of the finger, you'll find a simple rock
wall used for shelter from up or down canyon winds, and for cover
from approaching wildlife. Closer to the base of the finger,
there is a round rock hunting blind.
To return to the trailhead via the Twin Buttes, cross
a fence and head a tiny bit north of west, across the first of
several drainages you'll encounter. Don't make any special effort
to gain lots of altitude; the closer you can stay to 3000 feet,
the better.
Soon you'll meet the jeep trail your map shows--hopefully,
near the two little 3000 foot humps in Section 11. From there,
you can see three distinctive rock layers: resistant gray limestone
caps on top of the buttes; a pinkish chalk layer at the foot
of the buttes that slopes slightly; and a dark brown volcanic
layer that occasionally outcrops. Your goal is to follow the
pink layer as much as possible, until you come to Twin Buttes.
Along the way you'll cross many dry creeks, and see
a lot of barren ground. But somehow, this barren area has a strong
primitive feel you'll long remember. Suddenly, you'll catch up
with the jeep trail again, as it approaches Twin Buttes. You
can take it back towards the trailhead, or climb the eastern
butte. Either way, watch for two pink hills below you (W4). Descend
to the west side of the closer pink hill, and follow the creek
that starts there all the way back to the hot springs.
Access: Drive to the "One Stop" cafe at the
junction on the north edge of Bruneau town. Turn left (east)
on the paved road, and follow it for 7 3/4 miles. When the pavement
ends (W1), turn right across the old Bruneau bridge. After a
long 1/2 mile, turn left on a good gravel road (W2) that climbs
to a burned out plateau. Soon after it starts to descend, after
3 miles, note the Twin Buttes ahead, and then turn left on a
dirt road (W3) that can be slick when wet. Bear left after 1/2
mile, and you'll reach the big trailhead area, with its fenced
exclosure, after another 1/2 mile. There is a decent camping
area along the river at the Bruneau River take-out, just downstream
from the trailhead. |
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