Big Southern Butte

Hikes: D, O.
Total Distance, D: 6 3/4 miles.
Difficulty: Level I.
Season: April 1-September 25.
USGS Map: Big Southern Butte.
BLM 100K Maps: Blackfoot, Craters of the Moon.
Dirt Road Miles: 2 gravel, 16 1/4 good dirt, 1/2 poor dirt.
PLSS Location: Section 23, T1N R29E.

Introduction: From the top of Big Southern Butte (7560 feet) you can see the Tetons, every recent basalt flow, Borah Peak, Cache Peak, and probably Portland. From the top of Big Southern Butte you'll discover that the Twin Buttes, which look so imposing from the highway, are really very minor blips. Cars on the desert roads below look like ants. In other words, it's really up there!
  The author went fully prepared to walk from the gate area. He discovered that his new Subaru with low range was the absolute minimum vehicle that could make it up the road. He did what any normal person would do: drive to the top, not walk. This should not discourage you from walking up the road. There is very little traffic--none at all until June--and if you can't reach the top by truck, by foot is a very reasonable way. The author is told that some intrepid skiers walk up the mountain just to race down.
  A key point is that you should go here on a clear day. The usual hazy, dusty, smoky day just won't reward your efforts like a nice, crystal-clear one.

The Hike: Your goal is the lookout on the summit of Big Southern Butte, at 7560 feet. The lookout is normally manned in summer. Frenchmans Cabin is at 5085, the first rough spot on the road up at 5450, and the gate (T) at 5670. Your job will obviously be easier if you can start at the gate...
  From the gate, the road averages a 10 1/2% grade. Since this includes two slight downhill stretches, there are spots with at least a 15% grade. This is plenty steep for hiking, so there is really no good reason to leave the road until the very summit hill.
  The road follows a steep drainage, which in spring may have running water and/or snow. If you are hiking early in a snowy year, you probably need to carry an ice axe. (These are also useful for leaning on when your leg muscles have turned to mush! You should be able to tell whether you'll need one by looking up the drainage from Frenchmans Cabin.)
  After 3/4 mile and 800 feet, the road switches right and leaves the drainage. It soon reaches a limber pine forest which offers welcome shade and a good chance of early season snow.
  From the forest stretch, you make a slight descent to a saddle (W4), about 1 3/4 miles and 1200 feet up. You are now looking down the ruggedest drainage of this rugged butte, leading due south. The butte's slopes average an incredible 40%. This drainage averages about 60%! To the right, a very steep road climbs to a saddle and the Butte's west summit. The author car camped along this road.
  Continue the only way that counts--up. You cross a road cut exposing the lavender rocks of the Butte, cross a minor saddle, and can then cut a switchback. You can't stop now--the summit is in view! You can take the road all the way to the top, or just climb straight up the hill to the lookout.
  If you've carried water, or if you can find snow, you can overnight camp here. The best time to see the Tetons is early morning, when they are silhouetted against the rising sun.

Access: Drive to the well known metropolis of Atomic City, Idaho. Be sure to stop in at the post office/store. Take the old highway (Main Street?) south from the US-26 access road. Go 1 1/4 miles south of the Main Street/access road junction and turn right (W1) on a signed gravel road, which soon merits the coveted "good dirt" rating. This road crosses railroad tracks and then traverses the northernmost portion of the Cerro Grande lava flow. (You could make a short trip into the lava to left or right.)
  Five miles from the old highway, you come to a major junction (W2). Both roads take you to Frenchmans Cabin, but the one to the left is better. Bear left and drive approximately 5 1/2 miles, to some junctions near a cinder pit. Bear right and then left, staying on this major road which skirts the south side of Big Southern Butte. Three miles from the cinder pit junction, turn right on the good road that skirts the butte's west side.
  After 3 3/4 miles you come to Frenchmans Cabin junction (W3). Take a hard right turn and you are on the road to the butte. The first rough spot on this road comes after 1 mile. Gutsy cars can make it a short 1/2 mile farther, to a gate with a parking area. Vehicles with low range and decent clearance are required for travel past here.