Pillar Butte

Hikes: D, O.
Total Distance, O: 9 miles.
Difficulty: Levels II, III.
Season: March 15-October 15.
USGS Map: Pillar Butte, *Rattlesnake Butte.
BLM 100K Map: Lake Walcott.
Dirt Road Miles: 6 gravel, 4 1/2 good dirt, 3 1/2 poor dirt.
Other Source: "Volcanism of the Eastern Snake River Plain", NASA CR 154621.
PLSS Location: Section 36, T6S R27E.

Introduction: The southern end of the Great Rift Wilderness Study Area is anchored by the Wapi Flow, fifty miles southeast of Craters of the Moon Monument. Erupted about 2200 years ago, the Wapi Flow is typical of Snake River Plain volcanism. It has a steep vent area and gentle pahoehoe slopes flowing away from the summit.
  This hike takes you to Pillar Butte, the vent. You can stretch that 5 mile day trip into a 9 mile loop that takes in Pillar Butte and the Old Juniper Kipuka, one of the most pristine of all Idaho kipukas. You may overnight camp at the kipuka if you take the utmost precautions to leave it in pristine condition. Once you've hiked to Pillar, which is visible the entire length of I-86, your travels on that road will be more interesting.

The Hike: Walk to the end of the road in Wapi Park. Edge effect is strong here, and the lava flow's steep front shelters trees and shrubs. Wapi Park itself is an old vent which almost became a kipuka. Mark its appearance carefully: it will be your guide on your return from Pillar Butte.
  Climb the lava at Wapi Park's southern end, and you'll see Pillar Butte to the southeast. Work your way carefully over the pahoehoe, until you reach the steeper vent area. The lava here is very fragile even treacherous. Be extremely careful if you climb the vent and look into the cauldron.
  There are several attractions in the vent area (D). To the south the author found a bathtub shaped minicrater where a large bomb from Pillar Butte broke through the flow's crust. Further south is Moss Cave. Because the upper portion of the lava tube's roof has collapsed in several places, it is easy to locate. You need two lights and a hardhat to explore this cave--plus an attitude that such caves must be left in perfect condition. Too many lava tube caves have been destroyed by man...
  From Pillar Butte, you can continue to the Old Juniper Kipuka (on the Rattlesnake Butte map, in Section 36, T6S R27E). It is southwest of Pillar, visible as two low, green humps. You must be an experienced lava hiker in good condition to make this trek. Reaching the kipuka requires 2 1/2 miles of hiking on rougher pahoehoe than the 1 1/4 miles from Wapi Park to Pillar Butte. And once you get there, you are 3 miles from Wapi Park.
  Nevertheless, it's worth it! Old Juniper Kipuka (O) has 800 year old juniper trees. This kipuka's vegetation is different than Bearpaw Kipuka's or North Laidlaw Butte's. Bearpaw is lush and grassy, due to greater precipitation and possibly to fire. North Laidlaw Butte is extremely brushy. Old Juniper is 500 feet lower than the others, and seems drier. When you've visited all three kipukas, you won't be a range expert, but you'll have seen more pristine vegetation than 99% of BLM range managers.
  The hike to Old Juniper Kipuka is a long one. It suffers from a famous problem of desert travel--you hike and hike and hike, and the darned kipuka doesn't appear any bigger. Are you circling around it instead of getting closer??
  You could make a dry camp at Old Juniper Kipuka. DO NOT make an open fire--use a chemical stove. And don't leave your trash around like the party that preceded the author in 1997 (and left all the signs of Boy Scouts).
  The route back to Wapi Park is easy from Pillar Butte, since you can see the vents most of the way. The route back is more difficult from the kipuka, since Wapi Park is often out of sight. You can eyeball a route that takes you a mile west of Pillar Butte, follow a compass bearing of 15 degrees, or hike back via Pillar Butte.

Extensions: The author has made an overnight hike from Wapi Park to DeWoff Siding, 14 miles to the south along the Union Pacific main line. This was a grueling, carry-all-your-water outing with an overnight bivouac along the way, plus tough logistics. Try it!

Access: Start at the intersection of North Pleasant Valley Road and ID-39 (W1). This is 5 1/4 miles north of American Falls Dam on ID-39, and 7 miles south of Desert Road on the south edge of Aberdeen. Turn west on North Pleasant Valley Road, and follow it 11 miles. Turn right on Winters Road (W2), and follow it 3 3/4 miles to the end of the good gravel road, and turn left (W3). The next 4 1/2 miles, on Ice Cave Road, are good dirt or poor gravel, depending on recent rainfall and road maintenance.
  Four miles from Winters Road, a road signed "Wapi Park" heads left (W4); take it. (This intersection is 5016 on your USGS Pillar Butte map.) After 3/8 miles you come to another junction; take the road that bears left. (The author doesn't like this road, but he has used it recently, so try it.) A tough climb over a lava hump comes in about 2 1/2 miles, and you may wish to park here. Otherwise, continue another 1/2 mile to Wapi Park, a great place to car camp.